Day 2: Ascent of Finsteraarhorn (4274m)

We set off at 7 and reached the ski depot at 4088m in 2 hours. The ridge to the summit is very impressive with excellent exposure,a s the East face is initially overhanging and one looks straight down 100m. The difficulties, however, are easily turned on the west and the ridge is easy scrambling. I took 1.5 hours to the summit (4274m) and back. On the descent we tried to find a route straight down the glacier and icefall. We got most of the way down, but turned back in the face of route finding difficultie and huge crevasses with steep and icy conditions. We climbed 300m back up and rejoined the normal route. Observations from the other side of the valley, later in the week, showed us that there was a way through, but very hard to find from above. The snow conditions were poor with either wind scoured ice or frozen crud, which softened a little later in the day.

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